So you’re looking for a simple skincare routine that works—one that targets texture and reduces fine lines but doesn’t leave your face feeling tight or parched. Despite what influencers tell you, all you really need are hyaluronic acid and retinol to watch your skin progressively shine.
Meet the Experts: Richard Krathen, M.D., F.A.A.D., founder at Florida Dermatology Specialists and Samantha Ghiselli, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and founder at Skn Dermatology.
In today’s skincare market, where virality dictates the stuff people put on their skin, it’s easy to get swept into the hype and away from what’s proven to be effective. That’s when you know it’s time to get back to basics, and we have some dermatologists who can help. Below, they explain hyaluronic acid vs. retinol and how to use them in your regimen.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring molecule within the skin that binds to moisture, explains Richard Krathen, M.D., F.A.A.D., founder at Florida Dermatology Specialists. “It provides skin with its plumpness, elasticity, and hydration,” adds Samantha Ghiselli, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and founder at Skn Dermatology. As you age and inevitably collect skin damage, natural hyaluronic acid diminishes overtime and can lead to fine lines and dryness, Dr. Ghiselli explains, which is why it can help to use the molecule in serum or cream form to replenish your stores.
“It’s common to find hyaluronic acid in over-the-counter anti-aging products,” says Dr. Krathen. “Hyaluronic acid is also the basis for many dermal filler products used in cosmetic medicine.”
What is retinol?
Retinol is a vitamin A-derived compound popular in over-the-counter anti-aging serums and creams (see: drugstore retinols) that promote skin cell renewal, explains Dr. Krathen. “It is part of a larger group of compounds called retinoids, which includes prescription products such as tretinoin,” adds Dr. Ghiselli. “Retinols are less potent but more tolerable than prescription retinoids. In other words, over-the-counter creams tend to cause less reactions.”
The skin cell turnover that retinol activates speeds up their life cycle, which essentially means you get new skin more often, and therefore see improved signs of aging, sun damage, and scarring by working on texture, tone, and fine lines, Dr. Ghiselli explains.
Benefits of hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is beloved for its simplicity and effectiveness—which makes it particularly great for people with sensitive and/or acne-prone skin. “It hydrates the skin without clogging pores or feeling occlusive,” says Dr. Ghiselli. “It helps the skin appear more dewy and hydrated and can temporarily reduce the appearance of fine lines.”
Benefits of retinol
Retinol acts as a form of exfoliation, which leaves the skin smoother and can work to improve pretty much any skin concern that you have—even acne and clogged pores—as long as you’re consistent with use. which is the hard part, as retinol is not well tolerated by everyone, Dr. Krathen notes. It’s a generally strong product and can require users’ skin to push through uncomfortable side effects before acclimating.
Another pro: Over time, retinol can increase collagen production in the deeper layers of the skin, which improves fine lines, wrinkles, and skin plumpness, says Dr. Ghiselli. Collagen is another essential skin protein that diminishes with age.
Side effects
Retinol side effects include dryness, irritation, redness, and scaling or rough dry patches caused by over-exfoliation, Dr. Ghiselli explains. That’s why it’s important to use it as described on over-the-counter labels or as instructed by your dermatologist, because it’s very easy to overdo it. Retinol alsoincreases your skin’s sun sensitivity, which makes it extra important to wear sunscreen daily.
How to use
“Apply a retinol every other night, followed by hyaluronic acid, and then a moisturizer,” says Dr. Ghiselli. “You can also use hyaluronic acid twice a day, applying it as a layer under your sunscreen moisturizer each morning.”
To avoid retinol sensitivity, she recommends doing the following:
- Apply retinol every other night or every third night and gradually increase the frequency over time if tolerated.
- Apply a small amount. Two pea sized dots divided over the entire face and rubbed in so you barely have enough product to cover the area.
- Apply a hydrating moisturizer or hyaluronic acid followed by a moisturizer on top of the retinol.
The bottom line
When used together, hyaluronic acid and retinol can provide hydrated and smooth skin, and pare your anti-aging skincare routine down to a few simple but effective steps.
Kayla Blanton is a freelance writer-editor who covers health, nutrition, and lifestyle topics for various publications including Prevention, Everyday Health, SELF, People, and more. She’s always open to conversations about fueling up with flavorful dishes, busting beauty standards, and finding new, gentle ways to care for our bodies. She earned a bachelor’s degree in journalism from Ohio University with specializations in women, gender, and sexuality studies and public health, and is a born-and-raised midwesterner living in Cincinnati, Ohio with her husband and two spoiled kitties.
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