Dry skin happens year-round, but it’s particularly bad in the winter months. If you’re looking to hydrate your complexion, there are two moisturizing ingredients that get the job done. But when it comes down to the two, hyaluronic acid vs. squalane, is one better than the other?
Meet the expert: Mona Gohara, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Connecticut and an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine
While they’re both very science-y sounding, hyaluronic acid (HA) and squalane work differently, yet function together beautifully in a skincare formula—and each benefits your skin in essential ways. So, what’s the difference between them, and do you need both? I spoke with a dermatologist to break down which you should use, and if they can be used together.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a humectant that attracts water molecules to the skin. “It’s a water magnet that pulls moisture from the atmosphere to hydrate the skin,” says Mona Gohara, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Connecticut and an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring lubricating substance in the skin, not to mention other areas of the body, including your eyes and joints. Research shows that the production of natural HA in the body decreases starting as early as age 25, so applying it topically in a skincare product is essential.
Is sodium hyaluronate the same as hyaluronic acid?
Yes and no. “Sodium hyaluronate and HA are in the same family and work similarly,” says Dr. Gohara. “It’s the salt form of hyaluronic acid that can sink deeper into the skin because the molecule is smaller.” If ‘sodium hyaluronate’ is on an ingredients list, but you don’t see HA, you can still be assured that you’re getting that humectant hydration.
What is squalane?
While hyaluronic acid is a humectant that draws water to the skin, squalane is an emollient that locks that moisture into the surface layers. “Squalene with an ‘e’ is a natural lipid or oil made by the body’s sebaceous glands, and squalane with an ‘a’ is a stable, skin-friendly lipid derived from sugar cane, olives, or rice bran that’s developed in a lab. Since squalane is non-greasy, it makes a perfect addition to a lightweight lotion formula,” says Dr. Gohara. “Compared to heavier emollients like shea butter, squalane feels weightless, absorbs quickly and is noncomedogenic so it works well on all skin types.”
Can I use HA and squalane together?
Yes, absolutely! “They are the skincare equivalent of peanut butter and jelly,” says Dr. Gohara. “HA brings the hydration and squalane seals it in. Using them together in a formula mimics that how your own skin functions to maintain barrier support.”
Are they both safe to use on sensitive skin?
“Yes. Hyaluronic acid is soothing and hydrating, and squalane is one of the gentlest emollients we have—it’s non-comedogenic and irritation-free for most people,” says Dr. Gohara.
Can you use HA and squalane on their own?
Yes, but you need to cocktail one on top of the other. “Applying a plain HA serum, such as The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2%, is effective but remember that hyaluronic acid needs an emollient to seal in that moisture, so using them together is better—HA first and squalane second,” says Dr. Gohara, who recommends topping HA with a straight-up squalane oil, like The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane. Another tip: “Always apply a hyaluronic acid serum onto slightly damp skin to double the hydration factor.”
Hyaluronic acid vs. squalane: Differences
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that brings moisture to the skin, and squalane is a lightweight emollient oil that helps to lock in that hydration. This yin and yang action is why they work so well together to moisturize and maintain the skin barrier. Both ingredients are safe and effective for all skin types, which is why they can be found in so many moisturizing formulas, from serums to lotions and creams.
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Hyaluronic acid vs. squalane: Which is more hydrating?
Think of HA as a big drink of water for your face. Studies suggest that hyaluronic acid may effectively penetrate the skin to potentially replenish HA levels because it acts as a water-binding humectant that attracts moisture. It’s a super-soaker ingredient that instantly plumps, soothes, and moisturizes parched skin with intense hydration. “Hyaluronic acid not only hydrates the surface of the skin, but instantly plumps and softens fine lines—similar to how a sponge puffs up as it draws in moisture,” says Dr. Gohara. Talk about a win-win.
Hyaluronic acid vs. squalane: Which is better for mature skin?
“Our body’s natural supply of moisturizing squalene declines after the age of 30,” says Dr. Gohara, “which is why adding it back topically is critical for mature skin to keep the protective barrier stronger and softer. It also has antioxidant properties to help neutralize damaging free radicals from UV rays and helps calm inflammation, both of which contribute to the cumulative damage that leads to visible signs of aging.”
While hyaluronic acid is a hydrating superhero and particularly important for dry skin, it works even better (especially for skin over 40) when it’s layered underneath an emollient like squalane that seals in moisture. The bottom line: Use both if your skin is 40+ or if it’s super parched in the winter months.
is an editor, copywriter, and professional skincare junkie. Her work has been featured in Cosmopolitan, Harper’s Bazaar, Oprah Daily, Allure, Marie Claire, and more. Follow Gina on Instagram.
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