Chemical exfoliators like glycolic and salicylic acids are gold standard ingredients. They gently remove dead skin cells to keep pores clear, smooth texture, and so much more, all with less irritation to the skin barrier than an old-school face scrub. Due to this, these acid-based exfoliants work well with sensitive, acne-prone, and aging skin. But which one is best for you?
Meet the Expert: Mona Gohara, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Connecticut and an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine
When it comes to choosing between salicylic or glycolic acid for your skin concerns, it’s essential to know how they are the same, and how they differ. “While both of these chemical exfoliants speed up cell turnover, improve texture, and help with acne and discoloration, there are big differences between the two,” says Dr. Gohara.
Read on as she answers all our questions about salicylic vs. glycolic acids, including which works best or for acne-prone skin, which one is most effective for reducing fine lines and brown spots, and which one is potentially the right exfoliator for your skincare routine.
What is salicylic acid?
“Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), which is lipophilic or oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate into pores to break up oil and debris,” says Dr. Gohara. Salicylic acid, which is derived from willow bark, is able to penetrate through sebum to the lining of the pore, dissolving some of the oil and bacteria before it can cause acne. Salicylic acid can also regulate oil production and reduce oil buildup, making it the best choice for oily skin types. And it has anti-inflammatory properties, since it’s derived from a compound similar to aspirin, so it’s been shown to minimize inflammation and irritation. “This makes salicylic acid generally well-tolerated by those with sensitive skin and acne,” says Dr. Gohara.
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid, derived from sugarcane, is an alpha hydroxy (AHA ) acid. So are lactic, citric, and mandelic acids, as well as fruit enzymes. “AHA acids are water-soluble exfoliants that work on the skin’s surface to smooth, brighten a dull complexion and even the skin tone,” says Dr. Gohara. It can improve your skin’s radiance and with consistent use, it can help soften fine lines and fade brown spots. “Glycolic acid has been shown in studies to stimulate collagen production over time, which is what contributes to reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles for long-term skin renewal.”
Salicylic vs. Glycolic Acid: How are they similar?
“Both salicylic and glycolic acids are chemical exfoliants that speed up skin cell turnover, improve texture, and can help with acne and discoloration,” says Dr. Gohara. Both BHAs and AHAs exfoliate the surface of the skin to brighten, smooth and soften the complexion. While both are effective exfoliating ingredients, salicylic acid is a better option for oily and acne-prone skin.
Salicylic vs. Glycolic Acid: How are they different?
“They are both excellent chemical exfoliants, but the key difference is depth and target,” says Dr. Gohara. Salicylic acid is lipophilic, so it’s able to dissolve the surface oil and dead skin cells that plug the pore, and can penetrate into the pore to clear out oil, dirt, and bacteria to prevent and treat acne breakouts. It can also help control oil production. “Glycolic acid works more on the surface to refine texture and radiance. Salicylic acid cleans out the pore while glycolic acid polishes the surface.”
When should you use salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is definitely the exfoliant of choice for someone with oily or acne-prone skin. “Reach for salicylic acid if you’re dealing with clogged pores, blackheads, whiteheads, pimples, and oily skin because it helps to clear out pores from within,” says Dr. Gohara. “It’s especially effective for skin that’s prone to acne, including those stubborn hormonal breakouts along the jawline as well as chin acne.”
How to use salicylic acid?
“Salicylic acid is the go-to for oil control and acne,” says Dr. Gohara, who recommends an over the counter (OTC) salicylic acid serum or spot treatment that contains 2% of this active ingredient. “Salicylic acid is perfect for targeted use, like applying to the T-zone on combination skin to keep pores clear without over-drying the cheeks.” You can also try a salicylic acid facial cleanser to keep oil and breakouts at bay. Because there’s short contact time on the skin, it’s diluted with water and rinsed off, a salicylic acid cleanser can be used nightly,” says Gohara.
When should you use glycolic acid?
“Glycolic acid is a great choice when your goals are brighter, smoother, and more even-looking skin,” says Dr. Gohara. “This is the acid that treats surface dullness, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation—think radiance and refinement.”
How to use glycolic acid?
While salicylic acid is effective as a targeted spot treatment, glycolic acid is typically used all over the face and neck for overall tone and texture. Glycolic acid can be found in OTC serums, toners, cleansers, peel pads, lotions and creams.
The key to using any acid-based product is start slow: “Two to three times per week is a smart entry point for either acid,” says Dr. Gohara, “then you can increase to every other night as your skin gets used to it. It’s a good idea to follow the application of a glycolic acid cleanser, toner, serum or peel pad with a moisturizer to offset potential irritation and to support the skin barrier. Both acids can also increase sun sensitivity, so daily broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher is non-negotiable.”
Can you use salicylic acid and glycolic acid together?
“You can—but thoughtfully,” says Dr. Gohara. “Some OTC formulations are designed to include both, balancing surface exfoliation with pore clearing. If you’re layering separate products, it’s best to alternate rather than stack—using one in the morning and one at night, or on different nights—to minimize the risk of irritation.”
The bottom line
Glycolic acid and salicylic acid are both effective, clinically proven chemical exfoliants that can gently dissolve dead cells from the surface of your skin to brighten and smooth the complexion. “Both can help fight acne breakouts by exfoliating the surface and preventing dead cells from clogging pores in the first place,” says Dr. Gohara. Lipophilic (oil-soluble) salicylic acid is the best bet for treating oily and acne-prone skin because it’s able to penetrate oil to clear sebum, dead skin cells, and debris from clogged pores, and it can reduce oil buildup. Glycolic acid is a gold standard go-to for exfoliating the surface of skin to treat hyperpigmentation, dullness, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines. But she warns that going overboard with any kind of exfoliation—whether it’s chemical or physical—is a recipe for irritation, so moderation and mindfulness is key. “With either acid, more is not more,” says Dr. Gohara. “Consistent, moderate use will always outperform aggressive overuse.”
is an editor, copywriter, and professional skincare junkie. Her work has been featured in Cosmopolitan, Harper’s Bazaar, Oprah Daily, Allure, Marie Claire, and more. Follow Gina on Instagram.
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